Monday, 24 May 2021

Class exercise: proportion

For this class session, we created proportion for fashion illustration. We looked at some template in both Female and Male figures as below, and then we created our own templates based on four poses. We had explored different art media to sketch out the template and dress our model. For this exercise, I used HB 4B pencils, a 0.3 ink pen and coloured markers to finish the work.

Example:

The first draft, I sketched 9 heads measurement for an adult female


After the first task, I used a tracing paper to create another four templates from four poses



After that, I copied them back on the A4 paper by using an ink pen and tried to make them much more cleaner and sharp with the shape. 


Base on the sketches, I decided to put another tracing paper on top and start to use a different colour to design the garment. 




Thursday, 20 May 2021

Research: Africa tribal art - textile background information

In this blog, I will focus on the study of African tribal art textiles and some of their inherent patterns. Their dazzling fabric patterns are the characteristics of African culture and I would like people to think of the African style at the first sight of these fabrics. Unfortunately, due to the different region, I can't purchase 100% the same of their materials for this project, therefore I hope I can observe and compare similar materials that can replace some of them. In addition, I also want to study some material background information. I still have no clear understanding of them yet, so I will analyze them in detail in this blog post.

Different African textiles produced in different parts of the African continent. Africa has several different designs, techniques, dyeing methods as well as decorative and practical uses. These textiles have their own artistic importance and historical significance, and they are the main expression by which Africans define themselves.


In the beginning, the major historical information about African pattern and design is known from architecture, decorated artefacts, masks and textiles. Many forms of mathematical geometric variations, chevrons, zigzag, diamonds and triangles can be seen in lots of African decoration structure. Later on, the pattern started used as a resource for a contemporary African textile design.

Here are some well-known tribal textile art example:






The weaving of textiles is essential in many African cultures. The concept of human reproduction and regeneration can be represented by the different spinning and weaving. As you can see, textiles are even a form of storytelling that often displaces the written word and conveys important information to individuals, families or wider social units. Colours of clothing also play an important role as they can reflect many different characteristics and attributes. For instance, wearing black and white kente cloth is common at Ewes and Ashanti funerals, they representing both the celebration of life and the mourning of death.

How are they produced:

Weaved, dyed, appliqued, embroidered, and printed processes are all can be used to make cloth. Both varieties of woven fabric, as well as the leather and bark, printed, dyed, and hand-painted. Cotton is the most common fabric used in weaving, like wool, silk, raffia, bark, and bast fibres are used to make linen fabric.


How do they usually wear: Wrapped around waists and hips and then, thrown over the shoulder or turn into tunics and robes. 


In the past, their usage was controlled by chiefs and regional leaders, also Kente cloth was traditionally just worn by royalty. However, in modern times they mostly are often used for social and political commentary, as well as to commemorate special occasions such as marriages, funerals, burials, and naming ceremonies.

LloydA.K. How to Wear Kente Cloth. Available from : https://www.kentecloth.net/wearing-kente-cloth/ [Accessed 22/05/21].
Your Complete Guide to African Print Fabric | Kitenge. (2020) [Online] Kitenge Store. Available from : https://kitengestore.com/everything-need-know-african-print-fabric/ [Accessed 22/05/21].
Traditional Adire Fabric Patterns. (2015) [Online] Urbanstax. Available from : https://www.urbanstax.com/traditional-adire-fabric-patterns/ [Accessed 22/05/21].
African textiles. [Online] Contemporary African Art. Available from : https://www.contemporary-african-art.com/african-textiles.html [Accessed 22/05/21].
PictonJ. African Textiles. [Online] LoveToKnow. Available from : https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fabrics-fibers/african-textiles [Accessed 22/05/21].

Sunday, 16 May 2021

Customer Profile: Daria

In this class session, we learned about how to write demographics, also about how to base on our target customers age and needs, and focus on what they want to buy base on their generation or trends is. Our class was divided into groups of two and imitated the situation of asking customers questions, for instance: habits, goals, behaviour... I used the software flipbook to design the profile of my partner Daria, here are the final result:


I am satisfied with this customer profile result, it clearly demonstrates Daria's online shopping habit. Despite the fact that her primary buying behaviour is to purchase food, she raises the issue of the general public's aversion to considering the higher price and low-quality products issue. Therefore, imitating if Daria is someone I am aiming for my project and be my main target market, I will employ a lower cost and also good quality materials to produce and sell to the audience. In addition, the use of membership card, reserve the shopping points also has a kind of attraction, I will probably develop more in this technique usage, so that more people of similar age are able to use and shopping online.

Thursday, 13 May 2021

Research: African tribal art

As an art student, we may hear about the history of western art and aesthetics. Probably some of the greatest 20th centuries works of western art that inspired by African artistry: Gauguin took his influence from Tahiti, Picasso was influenced by African masks as he developed his Cubist style. Hence, under the cultural bias, some western supremacy may be affected and shaped the impression, they might also distort some original definition of African art. In order to recapture their original culture, I would develop what the original form of African culture - tribal art is and study deeply with the primitive art culture, hope can get some inspiration for my collection.


What is Tribal Art?
Original African art is a product of the varied traditional or indigenous peoplesThere are some differences between works made for the industry market and those made by tribal people for their daily life. African art and tribal masks are usually related with social significance or have deep relevance to tradition, also always marked the veneration of animist spirits or of ancestors. In the African culture, different races often had their own autonomy, they all have their own characteristic artworks which depend on their life pattern: Nomads would choose lightweight, decorative pieces that are often simple to bear; Carvings and African tribal masks are common among West African forest dwellers. According to the history, African artworks have their very nature imbued meaning: prestige, wealth, cultural identity, spiritual wealth and so much more...

African tribal art include:
wood masks, wood sculptures, stone carvings, furniture, ceramics, metalwork, jewelry, basketry, textiles, pipes, musical instruments, weapons, beadwork and the production of architectural features like doors and wall decoration and construction.

Common raw materials:
Wood, clay, pigments, shells, beads, ivory, metal, feathers, animal hair and raffia, and sometimes even semi-precious gems.

When I was researching the background information of Tribal art, I noticed a modern African artist, Lamidi Olonade Fakeye who is a internationally recognized for being a carver. He used aesthetic form to express a societal statement about cultural influence of urbanisation and globalisation. Their art can reflect the aims and also incorporating traditional skills as well as indigenous culture and beliefs. I think it will be benefit to look at some of his work, due to the little introduction of the web, I know he also presented about the culture of his tribe and all its myths and legends, so it may have more information about the local art form, I will be do another research on the following blog post.


 Tribal Art. [Online] Contemporary African Art. Available from : https://www.contemporary-african-art.com/tribal-art.html [Accessed 24/04/21].

African Odyssey Blog about African art and ethnic jewellery. Available from : https://www.africanodyssey.co.uk/blog/ [Accessed 09/05/21].

OdysseyA. If African Masks Could Talk. Available from : https://www.africanodyssey.co.uk/blog/if-african-masks-could-talk [Accessed 09/05/21].

Wednesday, 12 May 2021

Glossary of fashion terms: sewing method

Being a fashion designer, it is essential for us to learn about different kind of fashion glossary term, and I already researched a bunch of clothing glossary in the first semester, so if you are interested in what I had done before, you can have a check on this blog post Fashion Glossary. Considering the 3D design for this project, I decided to focus on another important glossary term: the sewing machine components and also some technique vocabs, hope it helps me to be more prepared in the fashion industry.

Sewing machines can be constructed in a variety of brands, so they all made with a different function, offer with different features and aspects, some are made for lightweight jobs while others are constructed for quilting. For this project, I am going to use a sewing machine made for domestic purposes which the brand called "Brother", so basically it won’t be as tough and powerful as a commercial-grade sewing machine but the basic accessories and solid anatomy will not be changed as this machine model. In addition, using a sewing machine made for domestic purposes, all of their settings are changed manually, which mean every time I want to change the stitches, I also have to adjust the length and width manually. 

The components of Brother sewing machines:

Reverse levers for backstitching/ Stitch length dials/ Balance wheels/ Spool pins/ Needle lights/ Pushbutton motor switches/ Needle bars/ Aluminium and industrial-grade bobbins/ Bobbin cases/ Bobbin winders/ Feed dogs/ Needle plates/ Pitman rods/ Armrests and drawers for storage/ Slide plates/ Belts/ Tension screws/ Presser's feet

Here will be listed some common components that we have to know:

 The stitch selector allows switching between stitch styles
 The most commonly used stitches in a garment: straight stitch/ zigzag stitch
/buttonhole.

Presser foot can keep the fabric in place when we are sewing.

The reverse stitch button allows to stitch in back work, usually used at the beginning and end of each row of stitching secures the stitches. 

The length and width selector is able to change the width and length of each stitch when we are using a computerized model.

A tension-control dial can help to controls the tension on the top thread. The stitch will break when it is too tight while the stitches will not hold if the set is too loose

Foot Controller
control the speed of the stitches 
by pressing on the pedal.


Sewing Machine Anatomy - a Detailed Guide. (2021) [Online] SewingLand.org. Available from : https://sewingland.org/sewing-machine-anatomy/ [Accessed 12/05/21].
The Anatomy of a Sewing Machine. [Online] Seamwork. Available from : https://www.seamwork.com/classroom/articles/the-anatomy-of-a-sewing-machine [Accessed 13/05/21].
The Anatomy of a Sewing Machine: A Guide to All Parts and Their Uses. [Online] Martha Stewart. Available from : https://www.marthastewart.com/7846161/sewing-machine-parts-explained [Accessed 13/05/21].

Monday, 10 May 2021

Anatomy of suit

In this session, we had to list out some specific language base on our progression route, and I decided to have a look at suit which I might put this idea into my collection.
 
Reference Picture:




Sheryll (2011) The Anatomy of a Tailored Jacket. [Online] pattern scissors cloth. Available from : https://patternscissorscloth.com/2011/03/31/the-anatomy-of-a-tailored-jacket/ [Accessed 09/05/21].
TanW. (2012) Anatomy of A Suit. [Online] His Style Diary. Available from : http://www.hisstylediary.com/anatomy-of-a-suit/ [Accessed 09/05/21].
Anatomy of a Suit. [Online] Harry Brown Menswear. Available from : https://harrybrownlondon.com/blogs/journal/anatomy-of-a-suit [Accessed 09/05/21].
Sheryll (2011) The Anatomy of a Tailored Jacket. [Online] pattern scissors cloth. Available from : https://patternscissorscloth.com/2011/03/31/the-anatomy-of-a-tailored-jacket/ [Accessed 09/05/21].

Sunday, 9 May 2021

Further Research and the direction of my project

"To order your thoughts and to signify where you are in terms of research and your project we are going to spend 15 minutes just writing a blog post."


How has my research, so far, informed my project?

I completed one of the fashion design Thebe Magugu's research and introduce his work to the class in the presentation, also I developed what actually primitivism is which make me much more understanding of their definition. 


How useful has my research been?  

I had been inspired by Thebe Magugu's first collection design. In order to match up the theme of primitivism, I might incorporate his natural colour palette ideas, the earth tone colour which includes the colour with clay burgundy, blood red, burnt orange... to be the major palette for this project. In addition, study primitive enable for me to have a deeper understanding of their culture, which support me to bring their original indigenous artworks into the present society more appropriately, and influenced me some pattern ideas.


What further research will I carry out next to build on the previous?

During the following week, I will be deeply researching the African primitive culture and their tribal art, analyzing the characterises of clothing and the facemask sculpture, considering if I would put these elements into my collection or how do I present them. In order to solve the question of incorporate primitivism into those three purposes, so I have to do another research on Emmy Kasbit who created lots of modern garment with his rich native African culture, I would like to know how he fits the characteristic of African into the standards of today's society, the way he balances between two different eras. Last but not least, I have done a primary research in the fabric shop before, so I will continue to work on the secondary research about fabric and will be focus on a few materials.  



Wednesday, 5 May 2021

Let’s Get to Work – project development


 

Further development in the real world: Five sketches

 Continues with the last blog post, we have to develop and try to use multi-perspective thinking to work with the project. I decided to create five more sketches based on one of the draft ideas. We can determine what element we want to explore with: Exaggerate/ Minimize/ Change colours/ Change mediums/ Change the light/ Alter the composition/ Alter the style. I wanted to explore what colour tone I can use in this collection 

I created by using an earth tone for the first two sketches, which means it's close to the colour of the soil or clay. It is a neutral colour element, which gives out a sense of maturity and easiness. I think this colour can be the most representative of the essence and carry out the atmosphere of primitive nature. Although its colour is not really sharp and also quite a subdued colour, it can coroperate with the exaggerated pattern of the design.


For the following sketches, I used a relatively dazzling and bright colours. I emphasized the use of complementary colours and also added the tone of the fluorescent, which expressed a sense of fun and impact in the whole visual effect.






I love how the combination of these colours work together, especially the second colour palette, which makes me feel like very avant-garde and much more personalities. Imagine displaying them in a store's show cabinet; it would undoubtedly draw notice. However, I need to concern about my theme again. Primitivism is based on the use of original and natural elements. My initial purpose was to convey the African primitive culture and to bring out this idea by the strightforward and simple design. As a result, if I add the second colour concept to the set, it will lose its value and be like more modern style. To conclude all, I might tend to prefer the first earth tone colour idea.

Tuesday, 4 May 2021

Project Development in the real world: Five Sketches

In today class session, we spend about 30 minutes doing some sketches about one of our design. It helps develop the initial ideas and can be much easier to form the final design. 
I added the basic primitive elements of Africa to the sketches and tried to develop two of my original ideas, including using animal fur shapes and hair pines as the major design. Secondly, using Africa tribal art of the primitive period, the sculpture on the wooden mask as the focal point of the overall design. I tested and drew a simple mask next to the paper, but it seemed too friendly to suit the original purpose of the African mask, therefore I didn't add it to the suit draft finally. Also as you can see from the side, I have taken into account the type of buttons, which is more suitable and how to incorporate them into the suits

When sharing the idea with the class, I just noticed that the proportions of the portrait models didn't match with their proper structure, so I decided to re-draw their proportions by referring to the website shared by our tutor Sam. Although the distance of my model's thigh has been improved after the second observation of the template, and it is much more closely with the original standard, I am still not satisfied with the last practice exercise, for the same mistake, the length of the calf could be lengthened bit more...Maybe I should print them out and directly draw on top on the paper to practise a few times first,
 I hope I can learn from the failure of this experience and keep practising to get improve in this semester.

1st time:


2nd time:


Girl Drawing Template at GetDrawings | Free download. Available from : http://getdrawings.com/girl-drawing-template [Accessed 08/05/21].

Download Hand Drawn Fashion Sketch Collection for free. [Online] Freepik. Available from : https://www.freepik.com/free-vector/hand-drawn-fashion-sketch-collection_4970136.htm [Accessed 08/05/21].

FREE Fashion Templates & Croquis. (2014) [Online] I Draw Fashion. Available from : https://www.idrawfashion.com/croquis/all-free-fashion-templates/ [Accessed 08/05/21].


Monday, 3 May 2021

Class exercise: Project development in the real world

Hence, the second exercise in this class session, we have to think about how our work might influence the world and explore how this will live in the real world. I sketched out four basic drafts that I might develop with, and I also considered how I can resonate with my audience.

I tried to integrate the most common and simple clothing designs into these sketches. As you can see, these sketches are just a very basic idea, I did not think too complicated about the cutting and colour, as well as I haven't completed most of the research details yet. For that reason, I just drew my initial idea without searching too much background information and base what I had on my point out. 
From beginning to end, I kept pushing the original African primitive culture popularization in today's fashion, also had been devoted to the purpose of this collection: present a comfortable and fashionable design to my audience. Therefore I stated them as a prime priority and putting those elements into the sketches. During the sketching, it leads me reminiscent of simple patterns, the thickness of line, different colour matching, mostly should be related to nature, animal fur and the pattern of facemask sculptures... Under my understanding of Africa culture and combining the current trends, here are the results that I had completed.




Sunday, 2 May 2021

Primary Research: fabric

I recently went to two different fabric supply stores with my friend yesterday: Material Magic which located in Leicester and next to my accommodation. In order to avoid being too rushed and unable to purchase appropriate fabric creation, I think I should have a look and observe what types of materials I can use, what kind of texture I can choose, and whether there is a suitable fabric design for my theme. If not, I can reorder them online and present the schedule is pressed for time.



I learned some tips from my friend who is also studying Fashion Design in year two, so she had told me some of her experience of purchasing fabrics.
1. When we are not sure if this material is suitable or not for our project, or even we just want to do some basic material exploration, then we can ask and take the sample. He will cut out 5cm to 10cm of fabric for your to reference (usually the situation depends on the owner to decide whether he will charge extra or for free). 
2. Producing a garment usually requires about three meters of fabric (depending on whether our design is simple or complicated)
3. Same as another shop, if we can't find the fabric we want, just ask and state the texture or colour we're looking for, they're pleased to help.

I walked around the store several times and observed that there are various of different fabric design, ranging from the most common type, cotton fabric to bead design, including silk, fluffy and rough texture. Of course, the quality of materials and the source of goods will become the factor of higher expense. However, as a beginner, I think the basic materials is far enough for me to complete my project, for instance cotton, linen, and cotton-linen blend, these are great choices as fabrics for beginners because they do not slip or stretch that much, it's easier of control. In order to match the cultural background of African primitivism, I had been mainly had a look at the diversity of patterns, bright colours, repeated patterns, earth-tone colours and animal print during the tour.  

Here is some fabric that I'm interested in and got inspired:



I am in love with this fabric, either the white or the blue one. Primitivism led me to think about nature, and this sharp and powerful fluor colour printing really catch my eyes and directly remind me of my theme.


There are lots of different sewing support material tools in the store, and I have an idea to incorporate the original feature into the design, like stones, shells or the shape of the tooth to be the bottom, it might increase the visual effect of the primitivism. I still not sure yet and have to keep developing the idea in the following blog post.

(bottom)